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How I discovered and fell in love with the Colombian Pacific

To talk about the Colombian Pacific is to remember aromas, flavors, places, music, people and experiences that are engraved in my heart. Above all, one subject in particular: grating a coconut with a conch shell! Yes, as you read it. Stay in this publication to read this story.

Learning a destination from its flavors changes your perspective completely and allows you a unique and special cultural immersion because of the degree of rapport you get to have with locals and their traditions.

Many years ago was that first trip to Tumaco and its islands, approximately 12, if my memory serves me correctly. I was very anxious about the destination since I had been listening to stories and tasting flavors for years through a nephew’s nanny. She, Charo, was the one who planted that first interest in knowing her place of origin.

I must admit that every trip changes me a little and this one was no exception. I was welcomed with a drink that is known by several names: Chirrinche, Chapil, Charuco or better known as Viche. One of the many ancestral drinks of the Pacific.

I tasted it neat and in different cocktail preparations with local pairings such as cocadas de patacón with a refried herb and shrimp. I still remember it and savor it while I am transported to that quiet beach place, listening to the breeze.  – sorry, I got sidetracked from the purpose of the writing when I remembered my arrival -.

Following the story, I want to tell you about the experience I had on one of the islands near Tumaco. The community would teach me a little of their preparations, techniques, products and fishing.

We set out early in the morning for this island with the community leader. Finding all the supplies for our lunch was the mission of the day.

As we approached the island, the boat stopped at a place with many shells. I quickly asked what those shells were doing on a stick. Adolfo answered me: ¨doña, they are the shells of the Macho Piangua. For us they have several uses and one of them is to grate coconut.

Grate coconut with a shell? How is this possible? I asked, a little worried that I would not be able to grate the coconut with this technique.

He smiled and looked at me: “Shit watch out! I’ll show you. The female’s shell is very smooth on the edges and is not useful (he said it showing it to me) while the male’s shell has sharp and well marked edges which allows us to grate the coconut very well.

I found it! This is yours. Please keep it¨

I must admit that I took it in my hands and still did not understand how I would grate a coconut with a shell. I confess that I never cease to be amazed by all that a day’s work has in store for me and this day would be no exception.

We continued on our way. We were to get some good plantains, coconut, rooftop herbs, cilantro cimarron, go to the mangrove for Piangua for our ceviche, catch a blue crab and a few Reculambai.

I will admit that in the mangrove with the Pianguas I was helpful, even in crab fishing I learned how to catch crabs, but the Reculambai are a test not passed. This sea beetle is so agile in its movements that it easily slips out of your hands and thank goodness they did not leave the task to me, because the bucket would have arrived without food for the community.

Midday arrived. I remember that before we started we ate a slice of fresh watermelon to get some energy and start cooking.

The same dexterity that the locals have to grab the Reculambai, is directly proportional to the skill they have to grate the coconut with the shell and leave the coconut shell completely clean to pass it to the artisans who turn it into kitchen pieces, bowls and other items.

I was amazed to see how skillfully the ladies were grating the coconuts. In record time they were all ready, my coconut took a little longer than usual, but I did it! Yes, you can grate a coconut with a shell and the Colombian Pacific taught me that.

Today I treasure that shell and every time I go to grate a coconut I do it with the technique I learned.

Now, you may ask, what was the lunch menu? The starter was a Piangua ceviche and the breaded Reculambai – delicacy of the gods – the main course: blue crab encocado with plantain.

The Pacific plantain, I digress, is different from the one found in the Caribbean and Quindío to name a few other growing areas. This plantain has a special texture and sweetness that is undoubtedly one of my favorites.

Dessert: cocadas!  – we share the recipe with you in the cooking section of the astuviaje gourmet blog.

The seasoning in each region is different. Pacifico is one of my favorites when it comes to Colombia. I dream of returning to have an Arrechón, those Cocadas de patacón, Balas, Encocado, Raya, Palanqueta, Chucha, Tollo, Chautisa, Pusandao, papaya sweets with cane and of course, much more Viche.

Thank you Tumaco for so much! Thank you for your people, your flavors, your landscapes, your music, your dances, your sunrises and sunsets, your islands and for letting me in to live the destination like a local.

And you who made it to the end: do you dare to grate a coconut with a shell?

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